Surf Journal
Session logs, progress, and mistakes from real surf practice.
Twelve Days of Surf Training in Siargao: Speed, Rhythm, and Letting Go of Fear
Twelve days in Siargao, learning to read waves, paddle, pop up, pump, and turn—and discovering what changes when fear begins to loosen it...
Do Not Break Down. Keep Paddling.
The hardest part of surfing is usually not the biggest wave or the worst wipeout. A lot of the time it is one small moment: you suddenly ...
The Wave Didn't Kill Me. Fear Almost Did.
When I returned to that break, my body recognized it before my mind did. The moment I got off the boat, my hands started shaking and my b...
From Rushing Moves to Waiting for the Moment
Before Lunar New Year, I read an article by Meng Yan where he used a phrase that stayed with me: "forcing it makes it worse." He used it ...